The note in Woolf’s Orlando says this was a ’twilled or corded dress material made of silk and worsted; in black, it was much used to make mourning clothes.’  For me it is a word that immediately evokes the whole Victorian era and rustling, dark crinolines.
Source: Virginia Woolf, Orlando, ed. Rachel Bowlby, Oxford: World’s Classics, 1992, p. 225
